Plan Bee Houses
You will not find a better Native Bee house anywhere!*
Our Plan Bee Houses are the result of extensive research into exactly what Orchard Mason and Leafcutter Bees need to be happy, healthy and highly productive in your orchard or garden.
It took two years of building and testing before we created our Plan Bee House for wood-dwelling solitary bees, and every year since we’ve improved our design. We think you’ll agree that it’s a perfect blend of healthy habitat, ease of use, and beautiful aesthetics.
*We admit to being just a bit biased!
What’s So Special?
There are lots of native bee houses available online, but we haven’t found any that incorporate everything Orchard Mason and Leafcutter Bees need in such an attractive and durable package. Many are made of plastic straws or PVC material, which provide a perfect environment for mold, mildew and parasites, but not for native bees in the hot, humid weather east of the Rocky Mountains. Some use inexpensive woods that quickly crack and warp, or build with eastern cedar, which is an insect repellent! Others have drilled holes in wood that are too close together, too hard to clean or too shallow. (Avoid any bee house that has holes less than 6″ deep, since a too shallow hole can result in all MALE bees!) Finally, most native bee houses do not provide for both inner nesting straws and outer protector tubes, which are a necessity for cleanliness and parasite control. I think I’ve seen ‘em all, but I haven’t found a more attractive and durable native bee house design than ours, and I know you’ll be proud to hang one in your yard.
Every feature of the Plan Bee House is specially designed to promote lots of healthy bees and to make your beekeeping experience easy, including:
- a design that replicates the bee’s ideal nesting site – a dark hole in a tree
- inner nesting straws that are easy and inexpensive to replace, and that help keep the holes mold and parasite free
- a 5/16″ hole diameter that results in large, healthy bees
- a 6″ hole depth to assure the best male to female ratio
- heavy cardboard outer protector tubes that hold the nesting straws, and keep bees safe from parasitic wasps and other intruders
- a hollow nest box that facilitates access and air circulation, and provides tube storage
- constructed of low-maintenance, sustainable, rot-resistant hardwoods
- 2″ roof overhangs to help keep out wind and rain
- pre-drilled hanging holes for quick, secure mounting.
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Can I get some pricing information for you bee houses? Thanks
Hi Dan,
Both of the bee house styles are $60 each. There’s more info on the web site Store: http://ournativebees.com/store/#ecwid:category=1649276&mode=category&offset=0&sort=normal
Let me know if you need any other information.
Thanks,
Denise
Do these work for carpenter bees? I don’t like the thought of killing them and am looking for a solution to divert them from my house.
Unfortunately, Carpenter Bees won’t nest in these houses. They like to bore their own 1/2″ holes, which always include about 1″ straight into the wood, then a series of 90 degree turns and tunnels to protect their young from woodpeckers, etc. They also use the wood chips to divide their brood chambers. Since they prefer bare, unpainted or weathered softwoods, one solution can be to paint or stain/seal the area. However, this doesn’t always deter them. If possible, you could mount a piece of unpainted wood near their previous nesting spot, which in a way will provide them with their own ‘house’. I’ve had good luck with this in the past. Also, mounting screening or flashing along the edge of the wood will also prevent future holes.
Hope this helps, and thanks for looking for alternatives! They may be annoying, but they’re really effective pollinators.
Best regards,
Denise
Denise,
Hi, I am new to your site and to Mason Bees in general. -but I am very ambitious and need to establish a healthy colony on my property. The information that you supply on YouTube and your Website is terrific! A testament of experience! I want to purchase your products but I need your help!
I also have several questions which I need clarified so that You and I have a better understanding what I require.
1- I reside in Southern New Jersey-Exit 2. I have ~1 acre of property. Tons of flowers, vegies, berry plants, few trees though. -Although my neighbors have larger trees, particularly large mulberry trees. Also, Within 1/4 mile are apple and peach orchards- You have heard of Jersey Fresh? My property is adjacent to it. I attract numerous birds, butterflies, hummers etc. My property is NWF Advanced Certified.
2- So, is it necessary to hang these Mason boxes in trees? I was hoping that I could free stand(treated posts) these mason boxes, say 5-6ft high or higher in the corner of my property, next to shrubs and my veggie garden.
3- Is it necessary that the boxes face in a east or south direction?
4- Temperature. These boxes will be exposed to the summer afternoon heat and humidity. Is this acceptable? Or is shade required?
5- I was hoping to Free Stand both spring and summer box versions. Do you sell larger houses? or do think this would be overkill for the size of my 1 acre property?
6- Rain. If I were to free stand these houses, I envision boxes with a wider roof overhang ; Since the rain will primarily blow towards the direction of the openings of the boxes. Do you sell boxes with greater than 2″ overhangs??
7- Can the boxes be open on both sides? so the bees can access the holes from either direction?
Denise thanks for your consideration in answering my set up questions. I want to get started, But I am not certain whether my plan fits. I want to do it correct and proper the first time. If this works, I will be a loyal customer for life!
Let me know!
Cheers,
George
Hi George, and thank you for your kind words about my website. You made
my day! Thanks, also, for your order. It will go out in the mail this
morning, and you chose exactly what I would have suggested. You might
want to purchase some bee cocoons this fall so you’ll be ready for next
spring. If so, I’d advise you to order a pack of 100 paper liners at
the same time, since they don’t add to the postage costs, and then
you’ll be set for a few years.
Here are some answers to your questions:
1- Your yard sounds like Bee Heaven, especially if you have native
plants. I’m sure there will be plenty of forage for them.
2- Actually, hanging in trees is my least favorite option. It harms
the tree, attracts ants, and is normally not stable enough to keep the
bee house from moving in the wind. Treated posts would be perfect, and
about 5 ft high — or eye level, so you can enjoy watching them — is
good. Not necessary to place them near shrubs and garden, but good if
it works.
3- It’s important that the boxes face southeast-south, or wherever they
will get the morning sun beginning early April (with no leaves on
trees.) This is important because mornings are still quite cool in
April and the bees must have the sun to warm their bodies to flying
temp. It’s also beneficial because most wind and rain come from the
west.
4- The spring Orchard Mason Bees finish their nesting in early June,
and I recommend that you remove the nesting tubes by mid-June or when
most nesting activity has stopped. This protects them from the hot
summer temps. Often it works out that the spot you chose for the spring
bees will be shaded by tree leaves during the summer months. If not,
and if you have a second house for the summer bees, I’d suggest that you
place the summer bee house in a more shaded spot.
5- I don’t sell larger houses, but I think 1-2 houses will be plenty
for a one acre yard. I say 1-2 because you can always remove the spring
tubes in mid-June and replace them with the telescoping tubes to attract
the summer bees, thus needing only one house. However, the summer bees
actually start nesting in late May, so your chances of attracting them
are a bit better if you have two houses. =20
6- The 2″ overhang seems to work fine, especially if you hang it so
there is a bit of a downward slope to the roof. Facing the houses
toward the east will also help with the wind and rain. Another
possibility is to hang the house on a wall with an overhang – the ideal
location, but often not easy to come by. =20
7- The bees won’t nest in a tube that’s open on one end. Think of it
as simulating a beetle hole in a tree, which is where they might nest in
nature. They want to look in the hole and see darkness, and it should
be at least 6″ deep as well.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your bees, and keep me posted!
All the best, and thanks for the interest-
Denise